When I first started making knife scales from resin with metal inclusions, I had a few failures. I worked with the makers to replace the defective scales and refined my process so it wouldn't happen again. In fact, I guaranteed that they would not break. This was before I started teaching a knifemaking class and was able to see for myself the kind of work practices that cause problems.
Aluminum hex core (honeycomb) and the other metal inclusions I use have been through a 5 step chemical treatment process that etches the metal for superior adhesion. Even so, it IS possbile to damage the scales through poor work practices.
The scales are extremely tough and durable once they are affixed to the blade tang, but until that time, they need to be handled with a certain amount of care. First and foremost, it is important to remember not to drill or cut any unsupported material. Using a piece of scrap wood as a backer will also prevent 'blowouts' when drilling. Use sharp bits so you are cutting, not pushing.
If you notice any cracks or delaminations early, they can be permanently fixed with thin CA (cyanoacrylate...Super Glue). If you are unable to repair them yourself or they are otherwise unsuitable, please contact me and I will resolve things to your satisfaction at no additional charge to you.
A note about 'bookmatching'...if your scales are bookmatched (cut down the middle and then opened like a book - each side is the mirror image of the other) be sure and remove any necessary thickness from the back side of the scales (the side that will be closest to the tang). Due to the way I pour these scales, removing significant material from the face (side that is against your hand) can destroy the bookmatching effect.
A note about sanding and shaping...the aluminum hex core is really not much thicker than aluminum foil, but the other metal inclusions are much thicker material (aluminum roofing flashing) that can cause you problems on the final shaping and sanding if not done correctly. Be sure and use a rigid backer when shaping scales with this type of metal inclusion. If you do not use a rigid backer (or even if you buff aggressively) it is easy to get 'dips' or 'divots' between the metal ribs as they are harder than the surrounding resin and will project a little bit above. Even if you can't see it, you will notice immediately once you feel it.
So, yes, even though I use the best materials and processes available to me, every once in a while there is a problem. My promise to you is that I will do whatever is necessary to fix it at no additional expense to you.